Retrofit your Home to LED Lighting, Without Blowing your Budget

It is truly amazing how far LED technology has come in a relatively short period of time. Do you know that you can now retrofit your home’s recessed lights with LED fixtures, for a fraction of what it used to cost a year ago?

Elite’s LED Retrofit module and trims, fit both 5″ and 6″ housings, are completely interchangeable with most recessed housing brands such as: Halo, All-Pro, Juno, Capri, Progress, Lithonia and Commercial Electric, provide 620 lumen (the equivalent of 65 watt bulbs) and consume only 14 watts of energy.

Elite LED retrofit trims are also dimmable using Elite’s recommended dimmer switches, and may be used in areas were moisture is present such as bathrooms and showers.

For more information consult: http://www.affordablelightingsource.com/Recessed-Lighting/5-Recessed-Housings-Trims/5-LED-Housings-Trims/5-LED-Trims/AL-RL530-12W-120V-DIM-FL-30K-W-WH-p780.html

LED Recessed Light Retrofit – What you Need to Know

First, let’s establish what you will accomplish by replacing your existing recessed lights with LED retrofit modules and then determine what you need to know to select the appropriate module for your environment.

6" LED RetrofitEnergy conservation: The LED retrofit uses as low as 25% of the energy of a 65W incandescent lamp and as low as 50% of a fluorescent down-light, thus yielding significant reduction in energy consumption. Life span of up to 50.000 hours or 20 years, will result in cost savings of hundreds of dollars by replacing one incandescent lamp with an LED retrofit. High LED technology standards deliver on the following: Zero emission of harmful ultraviolet or infrared wavelengths; surpasses California Title 24 requirements; delivers optimal light distribution and emits much less heat compared with other light sources. You save green, while going green!

The things that you need to know when you decide to retrofit your recessed lights with LEDs:

1. Ensure that the LED retrofit module matches the dimensions of your existing recessed lights, 4, 5 or 6 inches in diameter.

2. Ensure that the LED retrofit module matches the dimensions of your existing recessed lights, 4, 5 or 6 inches in diameter.

3. There is a wide variety of trims to choose from, including a complete range of colors and trims. You may choose from an adjustable standard white trim or a specially designed one to maximize light output.

Wether your LED retrofit module will be installed in a family room or bathroom, will dictate the type of product you should select based on your specific application. You must also consider type of trim best suited for your situation. For instance, baffle trims will minimize glare, while reflector trims reflect the light in order to maximize it.

Light color is determined by the LED module temperature rating. A color temperature of 4000K emits a cool white light, while a temperature of 2700K emits a warm, yellowish glow.

Our LED retrofit system includes all components necessary for quick and easy installation into any recessed light setting and to fully secure it into the housing. Our retrofit kit is manufactured by Elite Lighting but can be installed in recessed housings of other brands!

Please drop us a note if you have any questions regarding upgrading your existing recessed lights with LED retrofit modules.

 

Sizing Bathroom Ventilation Fans

As the trend to larger spa-like bathrooms continues to gain in popularity, the need
for proper ventilation becomes more important.  While many people are tired of their noisy and ineffective bath fan – not many people know how to properly size a fan to their needs.

There are several different ways to calculate the Cubic Feet Per Minute (CFM) of air movement needed to properly ventilate a bathroom. Please refer to the last paragraph of this article for more information regarding static pressure.  For example, a long duct run from the fan to the outside can skew your calculations.

METHOD 1
This method works on the assumption that the goal for bathroom ventilation is 8 complete air changes per hour.  Take your bathroom square footage X ceiling height to get the total cubic feet to be ventilated.

For example:  The bathroom measures 10 feet wide and 12 feet long.  It has 8 foot
ceilings.  So 10 x 12 x 8 = 960 cubic feet. Next, take the cubic feet and divide by 60 minutes.  Then take the result and multiply by 8 (remember, our target is 8
complete air changes/hour).  The complete equation is as follows:

STEP 1: 10 ft X 12 ft X 8 ft = 960
STEP 2: 960 cubic feet, divided by 60 minutes = 16
STEP 3: 16 x 8 = 128 CFM

Therefore we need 128 CFM of air movement to properly ventilate the bathroom in our example.  Assuming there is not and excessively long or twisting duct run to the outside, we would select a fan that moves somewhere around 130 CFM or higher.

METHOD 2
This method is a simple one – for bathrooms under 100 square feet.  According to the guidelines of HVI (Home Ventilating Institute) baths 100 square feet or smaller require one CFM per square foot of bathroom – with a minimum of 50 CFM.

Therefore, if for example you have a 7 ft. X 9 ft. bath – you need 63 CFM.  Most conventional ceiling insert fans however, are rated either 50 or 80 CFM – so you will have to round up or down (rounding up preferred).

METHOD 3
This method of calculation is designed for bathrooms over 100 square feet factoring in the number of fixtures in the bath (toilets, showers, tubs, etc.).  The general guidelines in this method are relatively straightforward:
* Allow 50 CFM for each standard toilet, shower or tub
* Whirlpool and jetted tubs require 100 CFM

Therefore, if you have 1 toilet (50 CFM), 1 shower (50 CFM) and 1 whirlpool tub (100 CFM), you will need a 200 CFM Fan.  An in-line fan kit would also work well in this bathroom. The kit typically includes a 200 CFM fan and allows for 2 exhaust grilles in the ceiling.

Static Pressure and Duct Run:
A ventilating fan must overcome resistance when pushing air from the inlet, through the duct, to the outside of the building. This resistance is known as static pressure. The amount of static pressure depends on the duct length, type of duct, duct elbows and the type of roof jack or wall cap.  Essentially, the more elbows, turns, duct length, etc. you have, the more static pressure will be present and less effective CFM of air movement you will get out of your fan.

There are some user friendly air duct calculators, and other tools available to precisely determine the effective CFM of air movement best suited for your specific situation. Whether you need a fan for your home or commercial building, it is advisable to simply round up to a larger fan, if you know you don’t have a straight duct run to the outside.

Dimmer Switch Installation – Go Green!

Dimmer light switches have become increasingly popular, not just as a means to set your lighting environment to suit specific occasions/functions, but also as a way to save energy.

When installing a dimmer switch, the most critical step is to ensure that one acquires a switch appropriate for the type of light fixture being dimmed.

The following should be considered when deciding which type of dimmer switch is best suited for the specific light fixture(s):

  • Incandescent Light Fixtures – Determine your light fixture wattage and select a dimmer switch to match. Although the most commonly used dimmers are 600 watts, they are also available in 1000, 1500 and 2000 watts.
  • Low Voltage Light Fixtures – Make sure you use only a low voltage dimmer switch.
  • Fluorescent Light Fixtures – Ensure that the fluorescent light fixture(s) you wish to dimm, have a dimmable ballast.
  • LED Light Fixtures – Be sure to use only the manufacturer recommended dimmer switch.

Always turn off the power before connecting your dimmer switch, this will ensure your safety and prevent damage to the switch.

We hope that you find this information helpful, and welcome your comments and questions.

IC vs. Non-IC Rated Housings – What You Need to Know

In their simplest form, IC rated recessed housings also known in the Electric Trade lingo as “recessed IC cans”,  are defined as housings which may be installed in contact with insulation material.

recessed_fluorescent_6

Conversely, Non-IC recessed housings must be installed in such a way as to allow at least 3 inches clearance between the housing and the insulation material.

recessed_fluorescent_6Both IC and Non-IC recessed housing versions include a factory installed heat detecting sensor, which will turn off the light automatically once the heat reaches the factory pre-set level.

Occasionally, home owners complain about their recessed lights intermittently turning on-and-off by themselves. When this situation occurs and you have installed an IC rated recessed housing, you most likely installed a bulb of wattage exceeding factory recommendation. Fix: Change the bulb to one of factory recommended wattage.

When similar symptoms occur and you have installed a Non-IC rated recessed housing, you most likely:

a)  Installed a bulb of wattage that exceeds factory recommendation. Fix: Change the bulb to one of factory recommended wattage.

 b) The insulation material is in violation of the 3 inch clearance requirement, causing the heat accumulation to exceed the factory pre-set point, thus triggering the sensor to turn off the light. Fix: Replace your Non-IC housing with an IC rated housing, or clear the insulation material away from the housing as required by code.

Your comments or questions are always welcome!

 

Carbon Monoxide Detectors and The Safety of Your Family

California Senate Bill 183, has been signed into law. The law now requires the placement of carbon monoxide detectors in all California dwelling units.

The bill requires that the carbon monoxide alarm device must be designed to detect carbon monoxide and produce a “distinct, audible alarm”. The device may be battery-powered, a plug in, or hard-wired with a battery backup. It may be combined with a smoke detector, but, if it is, it must emit “an alarm or voice warning in a manner that clearly differentiates between a carbon monoxide alarm warning and a smoke detector warning”

AC/DC Smoke/Carbon Monoxide Combo Alarm

According to the American Medical Association, carbon monoxide poisoning is the leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths in the United States. The California Air Resources Board has determined that 30-40 “avoidable deaths”, on average, occur in California each year due to unintentional carbon monoxide poisoning. Additionally, this is the cause of 175-700 “avoidable” emergency room visits and hospitalization in the state.

The devices mus be installed, consistent with new construction standards or according to the approved instructions, in all existing single-family dwelling units no later then July 1, 2011. All other dwelling units (such as apartments) must have proper carbon monoxide detectors no later then January 1, 2013

Got Lights, Where is the Switch?

A bit of trivia not necessarily for our friendly Electrical Contractors. This one is for guys and girls, who just like me, like to strap on the old tool belt every now and then to play “weekend warrior”.

Let’s just say, that your project this weekend is to install eight recessed lights in your family room. As you get ready to start drilling holes on your ceiling, you look at the wall and suddenly you feel this overwhelming panic sensation… You did not think of the light switches, you have no clue what type or how many switches you will need to operate the eight recessed lights you are about to install.  

 No reason to panic, 0ur recommendation when you install recessed lights of any type or brand, is to use a ratio of 1:4 — one switch (dimmer if possible) for every four recessed lights.

In the example above, our man or woman warrior would need two switches to control the eight recessed lights.

Secrets of “Accent” Lighting

An area that our clients constantly struggle with is how to spotlight a valuable painting, a niche, a classical piece of furniture, or simply a particular space in a room.

Our best advice is to use 4 inch, low voltage recessed lights, to provide the dramatic, desired affect. The low voltage technology provides a more intense and more crisp light, ideal to bring prominence to items on a wall or articles of particular significance in a space.

Reading in Bed Made Easy!

If you are like me; then reading in bed at night is your favorite activity of the day and  this blog is for you!

The worst part of reading in bed, is when you are already sleepy and ready for some serious shut eye, to have to stretch all the way out to the nightstand to turn off the light or worse yet, to get completely out of bed to switch off the ceiling lights.

Reading In Bed

Well, we have a solution for those of us who like to transition “seamlessly” from reading to sleeping: Install two recessed lights over your bed, about 18-24 inches from the wall and 30 inches apart. Control these lights with a wall switch and my favorite — a remote control switch!                                                 

When you are done reading, turn off the lights with your remote switch and peacefully go to sleep without having to stretch awkwardly or getting out of bed at all.

Learn more about California Title 24 Compliance

California Code of Regulations (CCR), Title 24, also known as the California Building Standards Code, is a compilation of three types of building standards from three different origins:

  • Building standards that have been adopted by state agencies without change from building standards contained in national model codes
  • Building standards that have been adopted and adapted from the national model code standards to meet California conditions
  • Building standards, authorized by the California legislature, that constitute extensive additions not covered by the model codes that have been adopted to address particular California concerns

Notwithstanding, the national model code standards adopted into Title 24 apply to all occupancies in California.